As I descend into the blue waters surrounding Statia, a hidden nook of the Dutch Caribbean, I relish escaping the chaos of contemporary life right into a world the place historical past, nature, and serenity converge.
St. Eustatius, regionally generally known as Statia, is a tiny 8 sq. miles (21 sq. kilometers) volcanic island within the Lesser Antilles. It takes delight in its absence of worldwide commercialism and mass tourism – no quick meals chains, cruise ships, or crowds. Regardless of its modest dimension, Statia contains a spectacular underwater marine park with 36 dive websites, every telling its personal story – from centuries-old artifacts, shipwrecks, pristine reefs, lava flows, and the well-known Statian blue bead.
I’m staying on the Golden Rock Dive and Nature Resort, a luxurious eco-resort that opened in September 2021. This resort is rising in phases, and I’ve documented its progress for DeeperBlue.com since Fall 2022. Gross sales Director Sally Glen’s passionate description paints an image of a magical, nearly utopian location. I’m excited to be right here in individual as they develop with their official dive middle – Statia Divers.
Actually, this place is beautiful!
Location
Golden Rock: Stride Into Historical past
St. Eustatius hasn’t all the time been the tranquil paradise seen as we speak. Within the 18th Century, it was a serious buying and selling port. Its duty-free coverage, central location, and guarded pure harbor made it a energetic middle, with 1000’s of ships a 12 months transporting worldly items and commodities, together with African slaves. The riches passing by way of the island earned the moniker “The Golden Rock.”
In November 1776, Statia was the primary to acknowledge American independence from Britain with the First Salute, an act that didn’t sit nicely with Nice Britain. This led to a cessation of commerce, assaults, and looting, inflicting the small island to undergo. It served as a pawn in colonial growth, with twenty-two international locations holding declare. It has been Dutch since 1816.
Statia remained comparatively undisturbed as commerce routes shifted and exterior business pressures waned. As soon as bustling with 20,000 individuals, the inhabitants now has 3,200—extra goats than individuals!
The St. Eustatius Nationwide Parks Basis (STENAPA), established within the late Eighties, based the Nationwide Marine Park in 1996. It circles the island, 10.5 sq. miles (27.3 sq. kilometers) – bigger than the island itself. Throughout the park are two marine reserves prohibiting fishing and anchoring, additional preserving the underwater ecosystem.
A novel side of the historical past is the Statia Blue Bead. Throughout slavery, slaves acquired their wages in blue beads and sometimes used them as foreign money. When slavery was abolished in 1863, the beads had been thrown into the ocean to represent their sovereignty. Right now, these beads are thought-about fortunate and will be discovered on a number of dive websites, together with Blue Bead Gap, or could even wash up on shore.
The island’s vigorous dedication to environmental preservation allowed nature to flourish, and right here now we have very wholesome reef techniques wealthy with artifacts.
Golden Rock Dive and Nature Resort: Sustainability, Luxurious, Journey
After my arrival, I make my method “Behind the Mountain” (the handle of my vacation spot) alongside a one-lane highway, the driving force giving a customary honk to say howdy to every passing automotive. Inside 20 minutes, we attain the gates of Golden Rock Dive and Nature Resort. The primary sight of the resort is hanging – trendy class seamlessly blended with lush, pure environment. The sprawling 40-acre property, equal to 32 soccer fields, is sort of a fortress of sustainability and luxurious. It sits atop a cliff with panoramic views of the Atlantic. The Quill, a dormant volcano rising 1,972 toes (601 meters), provides a daring but idyllic backdrop and supplies wealthy vitamins for the lavish gardens and lively greenhouse.
After I first realized about Golden Rock, “The Hidden Secret Gem Of The Caribbean,” I used to be intrigued by its off-the-grid ethos. Solar energy is harnessed at their 2,240-panel photo voltaic park, and freshwater is provided completely by way of a desalination plant. Gray water from showers and sinks is filtered and irrigated within the gardens and greenhouse.
The resort touts an approachable luxurious with a improbable assortment of contemporary facilities and actions, together with Bobbie’s Seashore Membership, the biggest man-made lagoon within the Caribbean, two eating places, two saltwater swimming pools, and an especially pleasant workers to assist create an genuine expertise.
Enterprise Into The Unknown With Statia Divers
Earlier this 12 months, Golden Rock launched its latest endeavor: Statia Divers, a PADI Dive Heart and Scuba College. This state-of-the-art dive middle, which debuted on the DEMA Present 2023, is tailor-made to accommodate each stage of diver and ranging pursuits by way of a complete valet service. They provide complimentary Nitrox for EANx divers and journeys on their two new dive boats, guaranteeing a top-notch diving expertise. Statia Divers supplies a full vary of PADI programs, from Uncover Scuba Diver and Bubblemaker to Divemaster. The power is spectacular, with a spacious structure, cinema, devoted digicam room, and a restore room to make sure all tools is in prime situation. I opted to hire gear, particularly since I had an insider tip: Statia Divers has a brand-new line of SCUBAPRO tools of their rental fleet.
Daniel and Kate handle the operation, working in locations from the Bahamas to Indonesia and Malapascua. The duo just isn’t solely skilled and welcoming but additionally enjoyable. Ask Kate if there are going to be horny shrimp on a dive, or point out The Humps dive website, and he or she is certain to have a tune or dance accompanied by her enduring smile. They prep and transport all of the gear, towels, snacks, and refreshments, after which we go to the harbor.
Stormy is ready for us. She is a fiberglass pontoon that comfortably matches 12 to 18 divers. The primary dive on the Aquarium is a mere quarter-hour. All websites are solely a 5-to-20-minute journey. Because the identify suggests, this website has a dense number of life. Pinnacles rise from the seabed infiltrated by backyard eels and large stingrays. The surfaces lined in mushy coral are topped with enormous barrel sponges swarming with tropical fish. Distracted by ghost shrimp dancing over an anemone, I peer as much as see the tail finish of a inexperienced turtle jet previous. 4 turtle species (hawksbill, inexperienced, loggerhead, and leatherback) nest on the volcanic sand seashores, making for normal sightings.
STENAPA Reef is a synthetic reef the place fishermen can catch lobster and conch. It consists of a number of wrecks surrounded by rolling seagrass, making the oblong barge seem like an property propped within the verdant hills of Scotland however 70 toes underwater. Peering by way of the 40-foot pipe, I see the within slathered with corals. An open hull gives a sanctuary for a bunch of squirrelfish who seem frozen as I float by them. Although my favourite piece is the totally intact tugboat whose bow and wheelhouse seem like an explosion of sponges, it’s so densely embellished. It’s a enjoyable dive with a lot to see, and I might have fortunately performed two dives right here.
Statia has two main shipwrecks I don’t have time for on this journey. The Chien Tong, a 170-foot (52m) Taiwanese fishing boat sunk in 2004, sits completely upright at 80 toes (24 meters) and is usually frequented by turtles, particularly at evening as they relaxation. The Charles L. Brown is without doubt one of the largest wreck websites within the Caribbean: 320 toes (98 meters). Earlier than being bought by Statia for $1 USD and sunk in 2003, she served to put telecommunication cables throughout the globe. She rests on her starboard aspect at 100 toes (30 meters).
Historic wreckage and artifacts similar to ballast stones, cannons, or anchors are widespread sights. In fact, eradicating or touching something is forbidden, so a no-gloves coverage has been applied. The Statia Blue Beads are the one gadgets that may be taken. They’re discovered on a number of websites, particularly at Blue Bead Gap, or could even wash up on shore. Alas, I’m not one to search out an iconic blue bead, or, in response to lore, it finds me.
However I discover consolation in outside eating. Bobbie’s Seashore Membership is the resort’s energetic journey hub on the fringe of the resort, 85 toes (26 meters) above the ocean. It contains a family-style restaurant with fusion delicacies, cocktails, and beautiful views. It was troublesome choosing from the hand-crafted pizzas, open grill choice, or sushi from a “Nobu”-trained chef. Breeze, the resort’s flagship restaurant, gives upscale eating within the coronary heart of the property. It’s an open-style constructing designed to operate like a large fan. Typically, the temperature is snug, because of the dependable breeze throughout the island.
After a filling meal and a very good evening’s relaxation, the pure mild from the early dawn gently wakes me. The room is spacious, and like all 70 rooms, I’ve a non-public balcony with views of the ocean and gardens.
To start out our day, we set off for Blair’s Reef. This was a secret website to hunt lobster, named in honor of a neighborhood fisherman who’s Captain Gadget’s uncle.
Daniel sits along with his whiteboard, drawing the dive website. “It’s artwork remedy,” Kate boasts. Corals are purple, and lava formations are orange dry-erase markers. Scribbled on the prime, our dive profile reads:
45 minutes / 700 PSI Blair’s Reef 67 ft
This reef consists of two historic lava flows with an enormous lava block shaped by the now dormant Quill. The wealthy volcanic vitamins make for wholesome corals like big barrel sponges large enough to curve up inside and gorgonians harking back to bushes swaying within the wind. They’ve seen eagle rays and shared rumors of a tiger shark, however not as we speak. It’s a small website, although circling it twice at totally different depths gives an opportunity to see the number of life hidden within the many cracks and underhangs. One crevice we hover over is full of big Caribbean lobster, simply bigger than my thigh, combatively waving their antennas. There are numerous indications that the reef is wholesome, although at this second, there’s a overlaying of purple Muppet-like algae.
Splashing for the subsequent dive, I squeal. I can completely see the ripples of sand 52 toes under. Right here, the sandy backside surrounds an enormous plateau of coral that results in 3 enormous mounds created from lava bombs – fragments erupted from the volcano – The Humps. It’s a simple, shallow dive and easily stunning. The purple sea followers and flowing mushy coral pulsing with education grunts, yellowtail snapper, and blue runners distinction the clear blue water. Backyard eels, stingrays, and peacock halibut animate the sand. Large parrotfish whose vibrant coloring appears to flicker as they twist and switch, positioning themselves to feast on the reef with the loudest crunch. I hear the clanking of a tank however resist wanting. I’m not able to be given a thumbs-up.
The variety in websites so shut to one another, even inside a dive, is unbelievable. We keep on the island’s western aspect, which is sheltered with calmer circumstances. A couple of permitted dive websites are on the jap edge, the Atlantic aspect. In fact, these are longer to succeed in, and I’m knowledgeable that they’ve primarily onerous corals like staghorn, elkhorn, and mind corals.
I spend my last afternoon with Miss Misha touring Higher City in Oranjestad, the Capital and solely metropolis. Her Statian roots, mixed together with her ardour, data, and respect for the island, run generations deep. Misha shares tales in regards to the plantations and the slave market that later advanced into a spot for music and singing, the tiny paper nook retailer that housed two households with as much as 14 kids every, promoting rum, and the seldom-used courthouse.
Ending at Fort Oranje, among the many cannon garrisons lining the fortress the place the First Salute was fired, we gaze out over the harbor. The bell ringer arrives, and after six loud clangs, the flags are lowered — St. Eustatius, then the Netherlands. I stroll down the steep path generally known as the Slave Path to the only highway alongside the water’s edge. I dine on the Barrel Home close to a small strip of seashore, absorbing the solar’s final minutes. A couple of yachts and business ships dot the horizon, and I think about, for a second, a energetic port with 100s of ships.
After I first met Sally in November 2022, she mentioned, “It truly is such an escapism the place you may get again to nature and simply wind down and actually get pleasure from a diving trip.”
And that’s precisely what I did.
GOOD TO KNOW
Getting Right here
Touring to Statia usually means taking a connecting small flight or ferry from one of many neighboring islands.
- Maarten (SMX) – many worldwide flights frequently land right here. Then, it’s an 18-minute flight on Winair to St. Eustatius (EUX).
- Makana Ferry – 72’ Saber catamaram from Saba, St. Maartan and St Kitts. Nonetheless, test the schedule, because the service just isn’t supplied every day.
- Golden Rock Resort can help with ferry lodging and supplies complimentary service for all Statia airport and seaport transfers to the resort.
A departure tax of $15 USD per individual is required when leaving.
Greatest Time To Go
Diving is nice year-round. January to June is a dry season, and rain is much less doubtless.
Circumstances
Heat, tropical local weather all 12 months with cool commerce winds frequently sweeping the island. Air temps are within the upper-70s °F (~25 °C) in January to high-80s (~30 °C) in summer season. Water temps vary from mid-to-high 70s °F (26-27 °C) in winter as much as 89°F (28-30 °C) in summer season. Visibility is determined by the location, starting from 30-50 toes (9-25 meters) within the bay to over 100 toes (30 meters) on the offshore websites. A 3mm wetsuit can be sufficient for many divers.
Diving
Appropriate for all ranges of divers. A Nitrox certification is really useful.
Foreign money
They use the U.S. Greenback. Money is most well-liked as many native distributors don’t settle for bank cards.
Electrical energy
110 volts, 60 cycles. The plugs are usually two flat prongs, just like the U.S. commonplace.
Language
Dutch is the official language, although most individuals communicate English. It’s prone to discover that most individuals communicate a number of languages, together with Papiamento – the native Creole language.
Extra Data
The Golden Rock Dive & Nature Resort is a 5-star, eco-luxury retreat on St. Eustatius, providing luxurious lodging and scuba dive packages. Rooms vary from cottages to suites. Customized Keep and dive packages can be found and will be tailor-made to create an genuine expertise. Teams are welcome.
